Dover — Alex & Jenn

At our flatmates suggestion, this weekend we went to Dover. Specifically we went to check out the tunnels under Dover Castle, that acted as a military command center during World War II. Dover Castle is the longest manned military installation in England, it had an active military presence from when it was constructed in 1180 for Henry II to when it was decommissioned during the Cold War, when they realized it wouldn’t stand up to nuclear fallout.

We took a tour of the tunnels that were dug during the Napoleonic Wars. Our tour starts by listening to the radio and the announcement by the Prime Minister and King that war with Germany has been declared. From there we move deeper into the tunnels and learn about the outbreak of the war and the efforts in France. This leads to Germany pushing Allied forces all the way to the beaches of Dunkirk.

It was in these tunnels that Vice Admiral Bertram Ramsay developed the plan to evacuate Allied forces from Dunkirk, in an operation code named Dynamo. We walk into the room where they developed operation and followed its progress. The videos here are original footage from the War and operation overlayed with reenactments and digital effects.

Then the tour guide leaves us and we are free to wander through the tunnels and rooms, all filled with original furniture and equipment. Here we see tables covered in maps of the coast outlining the locations of Allied military and merchant fleets as well as the German fleet and air force.

After the tour, we explored the grounds of the castle. Starting on the coastal side is St Mary’s Church, which is older than the castle itself. We continue walking along the palisade walls, which is on a hill overlooking the coast. Periodically along the wall there are gun emplacements ranging from archery holes to cannons to modern artillery. We saw some Red Coat reinactors with flags and muskets getting back in their cars, I guess the weather was getting too bad for them. After following the wall we ended up at the far side, where we come across the castle itself.

We enter the Castle walls by a bridge crossing the inner moat and through the main gate. Inside the castle was a warm respite from the weather, aided by an actual fire in one of the hearts and tapestries covering the walls of all the inner chambers. We found multiple bed chambers, which Jenn pointed out had short beds, because they used to sleep sitting up. There was a beautiful chapel with stained glass windows, which we are sure would be stunning when backlit by the sun. Henry II was holding court on his throne, explaining the history of the castle and his reign. He pointed out to some young girls that they have just as many rights as men in his kingdom. He tells the story of how his mother, Empress Matilda, should have rightfully been the Queen before him, by her fathers wishes. But when her father died, she was married to the Holy Roman Emperor and the throne was claimed by a political enemy of her father.

We didn’t explore much more of Dover, as everything closed early on Sunday and the weather wasn’t amazing. We were both hungry at this point, and so we grabbed a roast dinner at a marine-side Table Table (a chain franchise here) before heading back to Gillingham, the rain finally letting up once we were on the train.